Utah part 2 - parks parks parks
Hello again. Moving day was a success. It came off without a hitch. I think we have our moving day rhythm in place. We did meet our next door neighbor (now that all of the people in between us have left. He has a big 40+ foot class A and hauls a very large closed in trailer. He uses it as a garage for his Suzuki Sidekick, a motorcycle, an ATV and some other things we haven’t even dreamed about. His vehicles have Texas plates. We hooked up our trailer and pulled over to the campsite and loaded the car. He came over and visited while we tied the car down. I asked him about Texas because we were headed there in a few weeks. He could offer no advice as he used a mailing service in Texas and claimed his residency there but was really from Ohio. Texas is one of the places (along with South Dakota and Montana) that is a good place to claim your residency. They have no income tax and registration fees for your vehicles are very low. They also have no inspection sticker requirements so you can do all of your business via mail. He and his wife are fulltimers. When he retired they had a large fifth wheel trailer that they pulled with a large diesel hauler. That forced them to use the diesel truck (much like a tractor trailer) when they went for a quart of milk. They agonized for 5 years over becoming fulltimers and finally sold their house and belongings and bought a large diesel pusher motorhome and the small car they haul in the trailer. They have been on the road for 2 or 3 years now and wonder why they didn’t do it sooner.
Becoming a fulltimer (a true fulltimer) is a big decision. They took their time and are happy they finally did it. They did find a place they really liked in Arizona and bought a seasonal space and put a park model (kind of a trailer that never moves and doesn’t have any wheels) on it. They winter there so I guess they do have some roots just not in Ohio. When the weather gets hot, they head out on the road and stay there until they are ready to return. We belong to Coast to Coast to get our inexpensive campgrounds. They belong to 4 or 5 similar groups and have a much larger pool of campgrounds to choose from. After all of the driving we have to do to go places, we may have to look into that also. They got several groups out of one membership purchase.
The trip from Delta to Torrey was uneventful. It was about 145 miles but was all back roads so we didn’t make really good time. The drive was pretty. We saw lots of mountains and cliffs and some sheer rock and smallish canyons. As we got closer to Torrey, the scenery got more spectacular. We spent a lot of time climbing mountain passes to 7 and 8 thousand feet. That gets to be slow going but we have a lot of company (trucks). We started to see large cliffs in multiple shades of reds, yellows, greys and white stone. They soared 100 feet tall with a river at the base. There were large flat areas of open range leading up to them. We started to see more and more cattle and horses. We passed through a lot of really small towns. They had a gas station, one or more small restaurants or diners and a couple of small shops. We saw no large grocery stores and certainly no shopping centers. We have seen some ALCO stores. In Delta, the woman at the hardware store told us that they were a smallish Walmart. I didn’t think to ask if they were connected to Walmart or if they were like Walmart but when we were leaving, there was a Walmart truck headed towards Delta.
We came up over a hill and found our campground. I almost turned around and left. It has spawned a theory: If you have a really spectacular view, you can have a crappy campground and no one will care. Well, we are still here. The campground is adequate and certainly fills our need to be in the middle of everything. The water works, the sewer works (I hope) and the electricity runs the A/C (which it seems we don’t need). The view is like driving through one of the national parks around here with sheer rock cliffs in the aforementioned colors. We also have a year old horse pastured right next to us (to maintain the old west décor). There is a trail riding place just down the road and a police car sitting on the side of the road (perpetually) with a dummy sitting in it (a mannequin with a cowboy hat and a big bushy mustache). There is a general store just down the road that has a little bit of a lot of things (they have corned beef for sandwiches that is cut from a real flat of grey cooked corned beef rather than the chemical treated red corned beef), clothes, Mexican restaurant and things to fix your car. Out back they have cabins but no beer, wine or liquor (2 towns over I did pass a Utah State Liquor Store that had a neon sign saying they were open but had all the shades drawn and looked like a place no respectable person would be caught dead. I tell you what it is like inside when I see.)
It seems, somehow, that they expected us yesterday and reported us to Coast to Coast as no-shows. Coast to Coast assured us in the beginning that we could not double book a date in different parks and I know we were booked in the last park for 6 nights. We had originally booked the parks online but changed our dates over the phone. I must have screwed up and they didn’t catch it so we ended up double booked. The owner here said she would log onto the site and fix it so we didn’t lose any money.
We set up camp in a hurry, unloaded the car and headed for Capital Reef National Park. It is about 8 miles down the same road we are on. We were not very familiar with it so we wanted to check it out, get the brochure on the park and see what else we could glean in a short amount of time. The red cliffs behind our camp ran into the park. It seems that wagon trains and western travelers came through this area. The leaders of many of these wagon trains were former ship captains. To a ship’s captain, anything that blocked their way was considered a reef. When these former captains came up against the great stone walls here they called them reefs. The “reefs here are about a hundred miles long so the wagon trains had to go a considerable distance out of their way to get by them. In contrast to the red cliffs, there are huge domes of white sedimentary rock. The feeling was that these domes looked like the domes of the capital and so the area became known as the Capital Reef and ultimately was granted National Park Status.
The first settlers here were the Mormons. They built a town they named Fruita. They raised orchards here and were well known for their fruit. They built a school that doubled as a community building and had a blacksmith shop and several dwellings. Down by the school, there are pictographs carved into the stone by the Indians. There is a viewing place that you can see them from. They show animals and Indians in ceremonial headdresses. The theory is that they carved them to appease the gods so that they would return the mountain sheep that had so mysteriously disappeared. We returned to camp and set up our chairs and just stared at the big red cliffs.
The next morning, we got up early and headed off to Arches National Park. We drove through Capital Reef on our way. The drive was spectacular. It is beginning to remind me of Alaska. Around every corner is a view that is better than the last one and every view is spectacular. Most of this country is at altitude. I have had some trouble adapting to the altitude. Acclimatization has not come easily but still I work at it.
It was about 2 ½ hours to get to Arches. By the time we got there, we decided that we didn’t really want to make a second trip so we planned to also visit Canyonlands National Park while we were there. The two parks are almost across the street from each other and Moab is just a few miles down the road.
We spent much of the day in Arches. The scenery was impressive with spires and rows of rocks layered with shades of red, yellow and white. There were large rock formations and huge rocks balanced on smaller rocks. In the back of the park were the arches; large formations of stone with holes through them to form arches. One of the best known is called Delicate Arch. It is quite large and has several viewpoints. We checked out the first one (also the shortest walk). It didn’t do justice so we took the longer walk. There was a 200 vertical to the walk. It wound through the rocks and climbed up over a ridge and out onto a series of rock ledges. It stopped at the edge of a cliff. Delicate Arch was just above the cliff edge on the other side of the canyon. People who had taken the hike to the base of the arch looked like ants. The arch towered over them. The view from our cliff was the best place to take pictures. Pictures from under the arch would not be at their best (it was also a 3 ½ mile hike to get to the arch and we still had a long hike that we wanted to take.
We completed our drive through the park ending up at Devils Garden Trail. There are several arches along this trail including another of the best known (Landscape Arch). It had gotten hot by then. A description of the park said if you took just one hike in Arches National Park, this was the trail to take. If you did the whole trail including all of the side trails and the primitive return trail, it would be 8.4 miles. We figured to do about half of the trail out to Landscape Arch. We would see 3 other arches on our hike. The parking lot was crowded but we found a space, gathered up the pack, water bottles, cameras and snacks and headed out. We did eat lunch before we left. We ate canned ravioli. It warmed up some in the car over the day. We took ravioli because it was too much trouble to take a cooler and find ice and make a real lunch. It was good and nutritious. We didn’t need a can opener (pop top cans) and used plastic silverware so we could trash the whole deal.
The trail started out as a narrow channel between two large walls of red stone. Soon we were off in the heat. It was a great walk. We met lots of people along the trail. Some we talked for a long time with while sharing a small spot of shade. Pine tree arch was totally in shade. The arch was at ground level and there were pines growing under it. There was also a cool breeze there so we spent quite a while there. Eventually we got to Landscape Arch. People used to be able to climb up to the arch and picnic underneath it. It is a couple of hundred feet across and is quite thin. Several years ago, people were picnicking under the arch when they heard cracking noises and small pieces started to fall. The people decided to clear out and ran for cover. Large pieces of rock fell from the arch right where the people had been picnicking and now you can’t go near it. It is stunning and looks so fragile with its thin top. It was really hot and we drank pretty much all of the 3 quarts of water we took with us and the last of the bars.
We returned to the car and wound our way back through the park. This was one of the nicest places we have seen so far on this trip. We headed up the road and into Canyonlands National Park. We stopped and talked to the rangers at the visitor’s center before wending our way into the park. As a regular car, we are restricted to the road along the rim. If you have 4 wheel drive, you can descend onto the floor of the park and drive on the roads on the floor of the canyon. That would be worth doing. It looked like fun and the views would be just the opposite of what we experienced. The park was really nice but we were glad we didn’t we didn’t have to drive another 2 ½ hours in each direction to see it. We escaped with the gas light on and were rescued by a gas station just outside the park.
We headed down into Moab. We heard it was a neat little town. It was full of shops and restaurants and finally we found a store we could buy Cheryl a new battery for her camera. We saw a billboard for a place called “the Branding Iron” that was 3 miles out of town and ate there. We both had the Navajo Taco. It consisted of a piece of Navajo Fry Bread with beef, beans and a salad with black olives, salsa and sour cream. We had them 2 years ago in Custer Wyoming at the Crazy Horse Monument. The salad was better but the bread was no where near as good. This was a risen bread whereas the Crazy Horse variety was a dense unrisen bread. The recipe I have for Navajo Fry Bread has no yeast at all in it. The décor was western. There were branding irons on the walls and lots of pictures of western scenes from the town and rodeos in the town dating back nearly 100 years. There were pictures of rodeo champions from the 20s and 30s that were autographed.
The drive back, however was long. We got back to camp around 11 and went right to bed. We got up late the next morning, packed more ravioli, filled the water bottles and set out for Bryce Canyon. The road to Bryce left our road just a couple of miles from here and passed through the Dixie National Forest and the Grand Escalante National Monument. Little did I realize just what that meant. The road climbed through the forest in a winding manner through the 10,000 foot mark through wooded open pastureland. It meandered back and forth at 35 and 25 miles per hour. Now I like a nice scenic road as much as the next person but I pegged this trip as a 2 hour trip and it took nearly 3 ½ hours because of the speed. It was beautiful and would have been enjoyable if it were the only thing we were doing but our goal was to see Bryce and we felt we needed most of the day to accomplish that. Between starting out late since we slept in and the “scenic” drive it was after 1 when we arrived.
At one point on the drive, the road wound along a hogback (a narrow piece of land, no wider than the road dropping off several hundred feet off either side). Did I mention that there were no guard rails along this piece of road? It was a harrowing piece of road as it actually had no shoulders and dropped off at the edge of the pavement (and the road was none too wide either!) At the summit, we met a couple of bicyclers from Rhode Island who had started on the left coast and were headed across the middle of the country planning to end up in Virginia. They had just spent much of the day going uphill to the top of the Grand Escalante (Grand Staircase). They were planning to stay in Boulder (pretty much downhill from the point where we met them). They were pretty happy with the worst part of that day behind them. They were pretty much loaded down with all of their gear. They had sent their pans and stove home to lessen the weight and were eating simply or in restaurants. I did not envy their trip. My son Brad climbs mountains (big mountains), rock climbs and ice climbs. I like to climb on a much smaller scale. I would not begin to tackle the kinds of things Brad does (of course, I am a lot older now). On the same scale, I like to ride a bicycle but I would never tie all my camping gear onto a bicycle and climb a 10,000 (or higher or actually a lot lower) foot mountain. I am not at all masochistic besides, with a bicycle, where do you put the wine cellar?
Bryce has a voluntary shuttlebus system. In other words, you can take the free shuttle throughout the park or you can drive your own car. The woman in the ticket office told us that the parking lots throughout the park were overcrowded and that she would recommend that we took the shuttle (I’ve heard that story before). Since we have been driving a lot, we decided to take the shuttle. It hits many of the scenic spots (note the word many and not all) and they run about every 15 minutes. It wasn’t until much later that we learned several places on the map weren’t on the shuttle list but then we didn’t have a lot of time either as we still had to drive the scenic route back. Bryce Canyon isn’t a canyon, it’s an amphitheater. A canyon is cut by a river and has steep walls on either side of the base. As an amphitheater, Bryce was created by water, freezing and warming. It is full of hoodoos (spires rising up from the floor). These are created by erosion but the uprights are protected from erosion by harder pieces of stone on the top. This park is created through the erosion of softer sedimentary stone. You drive along the top rim and view the park from several points.
If you have the time, you can hike down into the floor and walk among the hoodoos. Not too many people were doing that but it looked pretty neat. The recommendation is that you head down there early in the morning with some food and plenty of water. It gets pretty hot on the floor. We made a mistake here. We were in such a hurry to get the shuttle before it left that we left all of our water in the car. There is a store in the park but it is not on the shuttle route (what’s up with that?). You can take a secondary shuttle from one of the shuttle stops or you can walk to it from the lodge shuttle stop (one of the last before you leave the park). We checked out the film at the visitor’s center but even that was an adventure. The film started really late. The lights in the theater were on a timer based on the length of the film so the lights went on and off in the middle of the film. The film also stopped on a timer but started up a few minutes later. The sound went up and down at all of the wrong times and eventually the film just stopped short of the end and started up again at the beginning.
There was a huge crop of hoodoos in the park. Looking down onto the floor from the rim, there were herds of them in groups all over the park. In the distance, you could see mounds and mountains. It was really pretty. I am not sure what happened to me but I started to feel sick and weak. It could have been a combination of several days of go go go combined with not sleeping well, hiking several hikes over the last 3 days, a lack of water and perhaps the pizza we ate in a small town just outside the park combined with poor insulin management due to the heat. We checked out some of the features and did the old “Griswold look” on others and headed back. The bus driver we had on the ride out was the best of all by far. The other bus drivers did the least amount they could do and “Fred” entertained his riders constantly. He had humorous stories about the park and cute sayings about people and the way the park is run. He had my vote as the best most entertaining driver.
The ride back was long. Cheryl drove for a while and we stopped and bought bottles of water and Pepsi (diet of course). I started to feel better but the ride was so long and slow. We did get back eventually and saw lots of cattle in the road as well as several mule deer along the road. Camp looked pretty good. We decided to take the next day off and slept late. I took the TV connections all apart and checked the connections. Everything looked pretty good but I wiggled everything and found a plug to what I think is a signal amplifier out of the socket. I checked everything again and turned on the DVD player to find that there was a DVD in it from our last trip. I started it off and then played with the TV. The DVD worked fine and soon we were watching an interview with John Ford, John Wayne, Henry Fonda and Jimmy Stewart. They talked about the westerns that were made by John Ford. He won 7 or 8 Oscars but never for a western though he felt they were the best pictures he made and the most fun to make.
We had a great time watching the backgrounds of the film. They were like the places we have been hanging out over the last few weeks. A large portion of the Ford movies were filmed in Monument Valley where we will be late next week. John Ford and Monument Valley were synonymous. He made 11 of his westerns there with the large monuments in the background.
We relaxed and watched the other 2 John Wayne movies on the DVD ate lunch and headed into the “Reef”. We picked out a couple of trails we wanted to hike and some back roads in the park that we wanted to explore if we could. We checked out the Goosenecks to see what they are. We stopped at an overlook and then headed down a dirt road next to it. It ended at a parking lot for the Goosenecks. It was a short hike up over some rocks (rough because the layers of sediment had broken up so there was no single “floor”). The Goosenecks lay in the bottom of a canyon created by Sulphur Creek. The river bed wound back and forth through the canyon like a series of gooses’ necks thus the name.
Following that we headed down the Scenic Route by the visitor’s center. This road held the Mormon house that is a combination museum and store. The museum consisted of the rooms of the house decorated in period furnishings with craft stuff for sale in each of the rooms. The store had food stuffs including bread mixes, jams, jellies, pies, cookbooks (pamphlets really) and home made ice cream (peach). While we were sitting out front eating our ice cream, a mule deer was about 15 feet behind us munching some grass in a bed of irises. While we watched, she walked through the front yard of the store munching as she went and slowly wandered around the parking lot and headed down the middle of the road.
Near the store was a replica blacksmith shop with an orchard across the street. There was a campground as we went up the road and then the fee collection box. We have the National Park Pass so we passed right through and headed down the road. There were two washes down this road of significance: the Grand Wash and the Capital Gorge. They were both served by dirt roads that doubled as washes (the purpose of a wash is to provide a release for flash flood waters throughout these canyons). Each of these roads/washes carries a warning sign regarding flash floods. They tell you not to enter the areas if rain is threatening. We do not have this problem at home. Here, heavy thunderstorms can drop a lot of rain in a short amount of time. This water runs off peaks and hills and large areas and concentrates in narrow canyons and washes and flows with a violent force down the washes. The storm doesn’t even have to be local. It can happen 100 miles away. If you are in one of these washes, you may not even know there is a storm until the water comes rolling around the corner and then it is too late to escape. People hiking in the wilderness will camp in these washes because the sand is soft and fairly devoid of rocks and then get washed away as they sit around their campfire on a perfectly clear night.
The drive along the Capital Gorge has many features not the least of which are the canyons. You drive between steep stone walls a hundred feet high of red stone. There are rocks that have fallen around the road and several rocks as big as busses that are imbedded in the ground right at the edge of the road. The Grand Wash is the same but shorter and has a hike at the end that takes you to several things among which is a pioneer register, a place where pioneers moving west signed a rock so that people who came after them would know they had made it this far.
We then went down to Route 12 (the infamous road from yesterday) and visited the Flute Shop. This is an Indian shop specializing in Native American Flutes. They had a wall of flutes that were just beautiful. There were single flutes and double flutes that you blow into the two of them together and play notes on one with the other acting as a drone I much the same way as the drone in a bagpipe. They had a lot of nice stuff there and had flute music playing in the background. They also had replica petroglyphs carved into pieces of the local red stone.
We needed some groceries and headed back up the road to find a store. The only place we have found locally was a convenience store kind of place. We drove all the way back to Loa and found a grocery store. It wasn’t big but it was a real store with a bakery and a deli. We stocked up on the things we were getting low on like bread, milk, eggs and soda. The bakery had 2 racks full of these really fluffy rolls (like big fresh made hamburger rolls). They looked so good, I bought a package. We had them for supper. They were every bit as good as they looked.
It has rained today. One minute the sun is shining and the next it is pouring. It has alternated rain and shine all day. We pretty much relaxed today. I have been trying to straighten out a problem with an order of medicine. I waited all day for a call to say it had been straightened out but didn’t receive one. When I checked online, it had been straightened out but no one notified me. I just sat here all day.
Tomorrow is moving day! We have a long ride tomorrow. We head over to Mesa Verde in southwestern Colorado. We have reservations in the park as well as a 4 hour tour of the cliff dwellings the next morning. I have been looking forward to this stop about as much as any. I have always been interested in these cliff dwellings. We are there a few days and then off to Monument Valley on our way to the Grand Canyon.
Well, we’ll see you. Hope all is well. I have been working with some pictures that should be out in the next few days if I have a good signal to send them with.
C&C
Labels: southwest trip
